"Launched on Two Paths"  

Satellite Bistro is a new site for both casual and fine dining.

Feb. 15, 2007 - by Dale Rice of Austin American Statesman

There is a dichotomy at the new Satellite Bistro & Bar, the sleek spot in Escarpment Village in far Southwest Austin.

The appetizers are typical of a casual restaurant: solid but not sophisticated, fun but not fancy. Then the entrees arrive and the bistro takes a leap upward with fare that's more the province of white-linen establishments. As more restaurants move into the area around the Circle C development and other nearby neighborhoods, Satellite Bistro is taking an approach that few others in Central Texas have mastered: something for everyone, upscale or downscale. The large selection of pastas, salads and sandwiches allows a diner to remain in casual mode for the full meal, while several of the entrees and desserts permit a patron to enjoy fine dining without driving all the way downtown.

For appetizers, the Greek saganaki ($6.95) brought pan-seared, imported cheese on a cast-iron skillet. Flamed tableside with a shot of ouzo, the warm cheese was served with tomato-olive relish and grilled pita bread.

In the lettuce wraps ($7.25), cubes of peanut-sauced chicken were matched with carrots, cabbage, fried wontons, a ginger-soy dipping sauce and leaves of Boston lettuce, a nice alternative to the typical iceberg for holding the contents.

Although both were good, it was the main course that got our attention with its urbane approach.

The Satellite duck breast ($17.95), sliced and fanned across the plate, possessed a deep, smoky taste that was softened by the sweet tones of a fig-duck-demiglace sauce. It was accompanied by garlic whipped potatoes and a vegetable medley.

Presented in a wide-rimmed bowl, the cognac scallops ($17.95) offered lightly seared sea scallops with rice and sauteed spinach surrounded by a tasty, creamy cognac sauce.

The cherry chipotle glazed pork loin ($13.95), which emphasized sweetness rather than spice in the glaze, was gracefully united with whipped potatoes and true, long, thin baby carrots (as opposed to the ubiquitous "baby" carrots of the snack packs).

For dessert, the Hubble ($6.95) was a cylinder of white chocolate mousse and lime curd, which formed a relatively light offering. In keeping with the space theme, the decadently rich Satellite star ($8.95) was a multilayered chocolate cake with chocolate ganache and raspberry chocolate mousse, wrapped in a thin, gold-star-decorated sheet of chocolate and topped with whipped cream and fresh berries.

From the light fixtures to the chairs, the ambience of Satellite Bistro is distinctly retro, a theme embraced by a number of area restaurants that have opened in recent years.

Service at the South Austin restaurant was friendly and attentive, and the waiter was confident in making recommendations.

Satellite Bistro has settled solidly into the Austin dining scene, with its double approach to casual and upscale offerings, it should orbit smoothly for years to come.

drice@statesman.com; 445-3859